In the late 1700s, eastern North Dakota saw a steady stream of Canadian fur traders paddling down the Red River to a camp area known as the “Grand Forks.”

The spot, just over the line from present-day Minnesota, had been so dubbed because it sat at the forklike junction of the Red with its sibling tributary, the Red Lake River.

Priests often accompanied these hardy souls, and Masses were probably offered here before 1800. The first clear records of liturgies on this land date to the 1820s. The bishops of what is now the Archdiocese of St. Boniface, Manitoba, directed these activities.

The first Catholics of the territory were, for the most part, French-Indian people who were called the Métis because they were a mix of French voyageurs with Cree and Chippewa Indians. It was the devoutly Catholic Métis, of course, who provided the manpower behind the trapping trade; this eventually spread out across the northern plains.

The French and Métis-speaking priests, mostly Oblates of Mary Immaculate, sometimes Jesuits, and not too infrequently diocesan priests from Montreal and Quebec, would travel with the Métis. They would later venture out onto the prairies to harvest the buffalo, selling furs and meats to the military and civilian settlements developing around the Red River.

When the Métis began to move back into Canada, northern Minnesota or Turtle Mountain Reservation (in northern North Dakota), the bishop of St. Boniface found it difficult to supply priests for North Dakota. Catholic priests were called in from Dubuque, Iowa, and St. Paul, Minn. These were American priests of French and Irish descent. They were also seasoned frontiersmen.

After a series of small church structures went up only to succumb to fire and the elements, Catholics emigrating from Europe began to arrive en masse, increasing the demand for a more substantial sanctuary. The city of Grand Forks incorporated in 1881 and, by 1909, the Catholics of the town had completed the fifth St. Michael's Church. They dedicated it on Oct. 17 of that year. That's the structure that stands here to this day.

What a beautiful place to pray for the intercession of the Archangels — Michael, Gabriel and Raphael — on their feast, Sept. 29.

The families of St. Michael's are likely doing more than their share to pray for and aid the suffering along the Gulf Coast in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, for they can relate to the experience.

Post-Flood Perfection

Catastrophe struck St. Michael's Church in April of 1997 when the Red River, which flows north into Canada, flooded the entire Red River Valley. The fast-rising waters were the product of a massive amount of snow and ice that created a blockage in the northern part of the river.

Some 50,000 people had to evacuate Grand Forks. The church and parish school sustained $5 million in damage, and for a solid month Mass wasn't said in the church. Yet, within three years, the damages were repaired. The guidelines for the refurbishment stressed concern for the historical integrity of the parish's buildings.

The present St. Michael's Church is mainly of Romanesque design, as reflected in the rounded arches of the windows and doors, and the barrel vaults of the nave. But the church incorporates other design traditions as well.

The two bell towers are topped with bronze-plated cupolas associated with the style called German Renaissance and characteristic of bell towers peculiar to the Alpine regions of Europe. The four bells, named in honor of St. Michael, St. Mary, St. Margaret and St. Louis, were blessed and put in place in 1912.

The main entrance of St. Michael's faces east and is entered by 12 steps, symbolic of the 12 tribes of Israel and the 12 Apostles. The same symbolism is carried out in the nave of the church, which features 12 columns, six to a side.

Four medallions on the chancel arch each represent one of the four Evangelists. At the very top of the chancel arch is a painting of a dove representing the Holy Spirit.

The sanctuary apse is in the shape of a half-dome, hinting at heaven. Within the apse are three ceiling panels. The center panel is of Christ ascending among the clouds. His arms are outstretched, for he is the lover of mankind. He is flanked on both side panels by an angel.

Great Vision

On the far left of the high altar is a statue of St. Michael the Archangel, pictured in his classic pose: slaying a serpent representative of evil and sin in the world.

To the far right of the high altar is a statue of St. Patrick. He is pictured with a bishop's crook in one hand and a three-leaf shamrock, symbolic of the Holy Trinity, in the other. It seems the Irish parishioners at the time of the church's construction insisted that the high altar contain a statue of St. Patrick right up there close to Jesus.

Also present on either side of the High Altar are two statues of angels in adoration of the Blessed Sacrament.

To the left of the high altar is an altar dedicated to the Mother of God. It contains a statue of Mary holding the Christ Child. Below is a bas-relief showing the Annunciation. The tabernacle on this altar serves as the altar of repose after Holy Thursday.

The carved-wood Stations of the Cross, which are finished to appear as natural stone, line the walls between the windows. The stained-glass windows, made by artists of the Munich Studios of Chicago, depict the entire life of Chris beginning with the Annunciation.

When St. Michael's Church was built, the pastor, leaders of the parish and the parishioners themselves insisted that all the work be done with great craftsmanship and elegance. They were fortunate that the work was done in the early 20th century, when many old-time craftsmen of varying specialties were there to carry through on their vision of what a great church should be.

Joseph Albino writes from Syracuse, New York.

Planning Your Visit

In 1988, that the U.S. Department of the Interior enrolled St. Michael's Church in the National Register of Historic Places. For information on Mass, confession and Eucharistic adoration, call (701) 772-2624.

Getting There

From Interstate 29, take Gateway Drive Exit. Go east on Gateway Drive. Take a right on to North Fifth Street. St. Michael's Church is on the right.

Prayer to Saint Michael

Archangel Michael, defend us in battle. Be our protector against the devil's viciousness and his deceptive traps. ‘May the Lord restrain him,’ we humbly pray. Leader of the army of heaven, use the power God has given you: Hurl Satan into hell, and with him, all the evil spirits prowling about the world to lead people to their destruction. Amen.