Republic of Malta

One of Malta’s major festivals takes place in February, when the country goes all out to celebrate the feast of St. Paul’s Shipwreck. I was fortunate enough to be there that week — and I’ll be there again, in spirit at least, come the June 29 feast of Sts. Peter and Paul.

As for that February celebration: It’s not that the Maltese rejoice over the shipwreck (although it did turn out rather well, considering Paul was a prisoner, en route to Rome to be tried as a political rebel). Rather, they rejoice in its consequences. Through that accident, the Good News of Christ was brought to Malta and the country became totally Christian.

Malta, an island republic in the Mediterranean, achieved independence from the United Kingdom in 1964. Its culture is an enchanting blend of Muslim and Italian traditions and cuisine, with a warm and inviting climate.

The country is made up of three islands measuring 196 square miles. The main ones, Malta and Gozo, still carry the imprint of 268 years of governance by the Knights of St. John.

Although almost everyone speaks English, the Maltese language is a Semitic one written in Roman script. God is addressed as “Allah” by 350,000 Maltese, 98% of whom are Catholic. The domes and steeples of 317 churches dominate the sun-drenched landscape. The Angelus tolls its call to prayer daily at noon. Roadside shrines dot the roads.

The Maltese will never forget their indebtedness to St. Paul. Many Maltese shrines and tourist sites recall Paul’s stay. They include San Pawl tat-Targa (where Paul baptized the first Maltese); San Pawl Miqghi, where the Apostle was welcomed by Publius, the island’s Roman governor of the time, whose ill father Paul cured through prayer; and St. Paul’s Grotto at Rabat, where Paul stayed during his three-month stay on the island, after his shipwreck in 60 A.D; the Cathedral of Mdina (former capital of Malta) standing on the site of a house originally occupied by Publius; and St. Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat.

These latter are Christian cemeteries, in which one finds round stone tables known as “agape tables.” Here mourners reclined for a final repast. The catacombs saw year-round use as bomb shelters during Malta’s terrible shelling in World War II.

The most elaborate St. Paul celebration, the one I was there for, takes place at the Collegiate Church of St. Paul Shipwrecked in Valletta, the country’s capital on the date decreed back in 1692 by the Holy See. Construction began in 1639 and continued for 40 years. Down its two aisles are 10 small domed chapels, each of which were cared for by various confraternities or guilds — cobblers, wine merchants, blacksmiths. Each chapel has its own artifacts, many donated by members of that guild.

Pauline Reliquary

The Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is especially resplendent on the February feast. A canopy, woven of silver and satin, covers the tabernacle. It’s embroidered with diamonds, pearls, rubies and emeralds. A large, silver-embossed monstrance is mounted. Its beauty is enhanced by silk damask richly embroidered in gold, which adorns the walls of the chapel.

On the feast day, I witnessed the president of Hungary and his entourage praying in this chapel.

The main altar was a dazzling spectacle, with 13 silver candlesticks and six small silver and gold statues of the apostles, identical copies of Rome’s Lateran Basilica of St. John. The jeweled reliquary of the saint rests on a golden jeweled stand. The altar front is made of solid silver, embossed with a dramatic shipwreck scene.

Three important treasures of this church are a relic of a portion of the right wrist bone of Paul, a section of the marble pillar to which Paul was tied when beheaded outside Rome, and the titular statue carried shoulder high in procession through the streets of Valletta. The huge statue is of wood, carved in 1659, towers above its base. It is wonderfully artistic: St. Paul stretches out his right hand as in the act of blessing; his left hand firmly holds the sacred book, flanked by a sword.

On the feast day, teams of men, laboring under its weight and platform, carry the statue. It is preceded by rousing bands and clergy and wends its way through the crowded streets, swaying from side to side as it makes its journey.

I had the impression it was alive, as if St. Paul were taking giant steps beneath the unfurled flags and banners decorating every inch of those narrow streets.

Off in the distance I could hear the frightening volley of fireworks. Behind the statue, townspeople of all ages sang hymns and prayed. The natural friendliness of the Maltese was heightened by the spirit of devotion in the air.

Several hours later, when it was all over, I made my way back to the Phoenicia Hotel and took out my Bible. The words of St. Luke describing the shipwreck and what followed (Chapters 27 and 28 in Acts of the Apostles) were so vivid it seemed he’d only just written them.

St. Paul’s feelings and mine for this graced island had miraculously meshed. I’m sure I’m not the only Maltese pilgrim who’s experienced this sensation. 

Lorraine Williams writes from
Markham, Ontario.

Information

The Republic of Malta …

… is made up of three islands — Malta, Gozo and Comino. It lies 58 miles south of Sicily and 163 miles north of North Africa. For information on visiting, contact the Malta Tourist Office at [email protected] or go to visitmalta.com on the Internet. Also worth a look is maltavista.net.

Planning Your Visit

The climate in Malta is pleasant year-round. Many British use it as a winter destination because of the mild climate. There are no direct flights from North America to Malta, but most European airlines operating in the United States can get you there via a European departure gate.