I was totally unprepared for the throngs of visitors crowding the windswept mountain-top that Montserrat, Spain, calls home.

Montserrat is an oddly shaped mountain that cradles a shrine to the Blessed Mother and a Benedictine community. Legend has it that an image of Mary was found in one of the mountain caves in 880 A.D. In the 13th century, a polychromatic wooden carving of the Mother of God with baby Jesus on her lap was created to represent the original image. (Photos courtesy Press Service of Montserrat)

Knowing it was a famous shrine that's stood here for more than 1,000 years, I suppose I should have known better.

Still, I never suspected so many people would wend their way up the side of a steep, 4,000-foot mountain on adamp and dreary winter's afternoon. Yet once I experienced the place, just 30 minutes from Barcelona, it all made perfect sense. Now that the dog days of summer are upon us, it seems like a good time for a vicarious revisit to a place I remember as chilly on the outside but supernaturally heartwarming indoors.

Montserrat is an oddly shaped mountain that cradles a shrine to the Blessed Mother and a Benedictine community. Legend has it that an image of Mary was found in one of the mountain caves in 880 A.D. When its discoverers tried to take it in procession to the nearby city of Manresa, they were thwarted. The people took this as a sign the image must be worshipped right there on the mountain. The monastery was founded a few decades later.

In the 13th century, a polychromatic wooden carving of the Mother of God with baby Jesus on her lap was created to represent the original image. This is the same carving venerated by pilgrims today in the Montserrat Sanctuary's ornate basilica.

In 1223, historical documents note the presence of a boys choir at Montserrat, the first boys choir in Europe. The choir, or Escolania, still resides at Montserrat today. Fifty strong, the boys typically sing the Salve and Virolai at 1 p.m. after vespers.

The sanctuary was destroyed by Napoleon's army in 1811-12, and the monks were forced off the mountainside. They eventually returned only to be forced away again in the 1930s due to the Spanish Civil War. But despite these and other ordeals, the monks always returned, and the site remained holy.

Today Montserrat remains an important part of Catalonian and Catholic culture. The sanctuary contains the basilica and monastery, plus a museum, restaurants, several footpaths to various shrines and lodging facilities.

Rewarding Trek

During my recent visit, the hustle and bustle of the complex's main drag was distracting. So my family and I started off on the footpath to the Chapel of the Holy Grotto, built into the mountainside around 1700. Expecting a 45-minute walk, we began down the sloping path, sack lunches in hand. Sculptures created by various artists mark the mysteries of the rosary.

As we walked along the mountainside path, a cold wind whipped around us, making us feel like true pilgrims. We were filled with admiration for all of those who had come before us to worship here across the long centuries before modern amenities were available.

Finally we spied the chapel, a terra cotta-colored structure that seemed to be growing out of the mountainside. We soon discovered why: Inside, the altar's backdrop is the actual grotto where the image was reportedly found more than 1,000 years ago. A reproduction of the basilica's carving rests here. Just off the chapel are several smaller rooms such as the pilgrims' room, filled with objects visitors left in thanksgiving for prayers answered — baby clothes, shoes and photos in thanks for healthy children.

Halfway through our second walk — the Way of the Cross — a sudden mountain snowstorm, complete with thunder and lightning, forced us to turn back. Our walks were over for the day, but the basilica and holy image lie ahead. We joined a chattering line of pilgrims queued up outside the basilica's right-side door, where you enter to venerate the image. The line moved rather quickly past five of the basilica's side chapels but slowed for the remainder of the way. This proved a blessing in disguise, as the sights were stunning.

A large, arched alabaster doorway, decorated with biblical references related to Mary, opens onto a glittering stairway. Its interior walls are adorned with colorful mosaics depicting virgin saints (right side) and those who were mothers (left). The ceiling is also ornately decorated.

At the top of the stairs we stepped into a sparsely furnished room; its main feature is a large armoire containing three flags. Their presence next to the Blessed Virgin is thought to help independent-minded Catalonians live in reconciliation, solidarity and brotherhood with all while maintaining their own identity. Sparkling doors of repoussÉ silver lead to the holy image, which rests on a throne of polished stone from the mountain.

Universal Queen

Finally the chattering crowd quieted, and we silently processed to the image. Our Lady is safely ensconced behind an oval glass, but her right hand, which holds a sphere symbolizing the universe, protrudes out of an opening. The traditional ritual for venerating the Blessed Virgin is to kiss or touch her right hand while opening your other hand out to Jesus, who gives us eternal life.

Some people bowed in front of the image while others touched the glass reverently. Still others followed the traditional ritual. When I approached, I quickly saw the Virgin is a “Black Virgin” because her face and hands have a dark hue. Interestingly, the dark color is not from the wood, which isn't black, nor from earlier coatings of paint. It has simply darkened over the years, although her right hand and the orb have been rubbed to a caramel-colored sheen.

After our veneration, we ducked into the resplendent Mother of God chapel next door, which features stunning paintings, stained glass and other objects. My favorite: a vibrant sculpture of St. George, patron saint of Catalonia, slaying the dragon.

We departed the basilica via the “Ave Maria Path,” lit by thousands of candles, all representing silent prayers to Mary. The snow had stopped and we tramped back to our car, almost forgetting to enjoy the stunning mountainside views. We might not have seen as much of Montserrat as we'd have liked, but our hearts and souls were full.

Melanie Radzicki McManus writes from Sun Prairie, Wisconsin.