Hope in the Highlands

A late-summer visit to Pluscarden Abbey, an historic Benedictine enclave in the Scottish Highlands.

Morayshire, Scotland

Pluscarden Abbey is in the Highlands of Scotland, where the Moray Firth reaches the North Sea. It’s not far from Culloden, scene of one of the most tragic battles in British history.

Its setting is remote. The weekend I visited, it seemed more than usually so, because a storm brought down the power lines and we were plunged into total darkness.

But, we found, a warm Benedictine welcome awaits the visitor here: a thriving community of monks, a glorious liturgy, beautiful scenery, an abbey shop selling honey and balm from the abbey’s own bees, and pleasant guesthouses named in honor of the twin Sts. Benedict and Scholastica.

This is a place with a message of hope. Founded in the early Middle Ages, it was destroyed during the Reformation. The land was handed over to rich supporters of the crown. Some of the stones from the church were taken away to build St. Giles’ Kirk in nearby Elgin.

By the 19th century, the abbey was flourishing as a grand country house. Hunting parties enjoyed luncheons in the old chapter-house, and the monks’ dormitory was turned into a community room and dance hall for the tenants of the Earl of Fife.

Then the abbey came into Catholic hands. A convert, John Patrick, Marquess of Bute, bought it in 1897. He had Mass celebrated in the small prior’s chapel on the first floor. It was to be some years before any religious community stepped forward to take on the tremendous task of full restoration. In fact, this did not happen until after World War II, when the marquess’ youngest son inherited the property and handed it over to monks from Prinknash in Gloucestershire, England.

It took a great deal of work. The ruins had sturdy walls that had withstood 400 years of rough weather, but the structure had no roof. And, of course, there were no facilities such as piped water or heating. Yet, by the 1950s, the abbey was flourishing.


Day Lights

Today Pluscarden Abbey is home to more than 20 monks. It sees a steady stream of visitors who come to share in the revived monastic way of life and enjoy the peace, the friendliness of the community, and the Latin chant — which, at regular intervals throughout the day, soars up to the great arched windows of the fine church.

Did I say “day”? The hours of darkness belong to God, too.

The sung offices begin at 4:45 a.m. with vigils and lauds, though few visitors attend at that hour. Most are content to attend later, at prime, terce, or sext, and there are the beautiful evening offices of vespers at 6 p.m. and compline at 8 p.m. This last finishes with the abbot blessing all present with holy water before everyone disperses for a good night’s rest.

The final prayer is said before an image of Our Lady of Pluscarden, the abbey’s principal patron.

Sunday Mass attracts a good congregation of locals as folks drive in from the town of Elgin and neighboring villages.

During my electricity-free visit on a winter’s day, the candlelit church interior looked particularly spectacular.

“This is a traditional monastic community, and we sing the offices of the Church in Latin, as revised following Vatican II,” says the abbot, Father Hugh Gilbert. “We welcome visitors, and are especially glad of our contacts with some of the new movements within the Church.”

Male visitors stay at a guesthouse within the abbey walls, ladies at St. Scholastica’s just down the lane. This is built in a matching style and is self-catering, with a full kitchen, hot showers, comfortable bedrooms and an open, peaceful sitting room.


Prayer Works

The monks make vestments, create stained glass, raise goats and work in the gardens. The beehives produce not only honey but also beeswax, which is turned into “Benet’s Balm.” This is popular with sufferers of dry skin.

But the main work of Pluscarden is the lectio divina (spiritual reading) and the church is the heart of the place. The bells peal out to summon the faithful to prayer.

While in church, enjoy the stained glass, some of which is new (1980s) and blends with the medieval walls and arches to create a harmonious whole. And, before you go, enjoy the wooded walk down the drive, the peaceful cemetery where local families as well as monks lie at rest, and the glorious freshness and sense of space with the air coming off the not-far-distant sea.

Pure Benedictine bliss.


Joanna Bogle writes from London.


Info

Pluscarden Abbey
Elgin, Morayshire
IV30 8UA
Scotland, UK


Planning Your Visit

From Inverness (which has rail and air links with London), take the main A9 road to Aberdeen, turning off before reaching the town of Elgin. For information on overnight accommodations, along with more info on the abbey, go to PluscardenAbbey.org.

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