Glories to God in the Grand Canyon State

Glories to God in the Grand Canyon State: A vicarious visit to the Catholic high points in Arizona’s oldest city, Tucson.

It’s not surprising that Tucson, Ariz., is filled with Catholic buildings, shrines and works of art. After all, the city is one-quarter Catholic, thanks in no small part to its substantial Hispanic population, and it’s one of our nation’s more notable missionary centers. It’s also known for its artists, many of whom were influenced by the region’s religious culture.

If you’re planning a trip to the area — hopefully after its famously “hot but dry” summer air has begun to cool — here are a few key sights to slot into your itinerary.

San Xavier del Bac Mission

Rising out of the barren desert, the immense, white San Xavier cuts an impressive profile, even though it’s currently undergoing renovations and half its fired-adobe façade is covered in scaffolding. Considered an outstanding example of Spanish Colonial architecture, the 1797 mission showcases a mixture of Mexican, Moorish and Byzantine styles.

While the exterior architecture is striking, the church’s interior presents an explosion of color and statuary. Its retablo (the ornamental background behind the altar) is particularly dazzling, with brightly colored lacquers, and silver and golf leaf. In fact, some say it’s the finest example of a Spanish retablo north of Mexico’s great colonial cities.

Pilgrims, though, are mainly interested in the reclining wooden statue of San Francisco Xavier in the west transept. Forming long queues, they line up to reverentially touch the figure or try to gently lift its head; legend has it only a truly good person is able to raise the head. Worshippers also pin small, metal symbols called “milagros” on his blanket, representing the miracles for which they’re praying. When prayers are answered, pilgrims leave trinkets or photos as thanks.

The mission complex also contains a gift shop and small museum, which explains San Xavier’s history: Founded in 1692, it’s the northernmost mission in the line formed by Father Eusebio Kino, a Jesuit priest and explorer. The mission serves the area’s native Tohono O’odham people.

St. Augustine Cathedral

Tucked just south of downtown Tucson, St. Augustine isn’t a grandiose, formidable structure. Instead, its white cast-stone façade looks quite homey. Even the folks hawking religious articles outside before Sunday Mass add to its lively, welcoming atmosphere.

In the vestibule, a sign proclaims the cathedral a historic site, as at least one legislative session was held on this spot when Tucson was the territorial capital of Arizona (1867-1877). Devout parishioners often stop to pray near statues of the Sacred Heart, Our Lady of Lourdes, St. Anthony, St. Jude and St. Joseph.

Stepping into the nave, you may find that the church initially strikes you as understated if not downright plain. But your attention will be quickly captured by the 17-foot, two-ton statue of the risen Christ hanging above the cathedra (bishop’s chair). Carved in Spain two decades ago, it was a special gift to the cathedral.

Side altars are dedicated to the Blessed Sacrament and Our Lady of Guadalupe, affectionately called La Virgen. Honored here since soldiers were stationed in the Tucson Presidio Fort, La Virgen was the patron saint for soldiers going into battle against the Apaches, while St. Augustine was the civilians’ patron saint. Today he’s the city’s patron saint.

Garden of Gethsemane

When sculptor Felix Lucero was critically injured during WWI, he vowed to God that, if he survived, he’d dedicate his life to creating reverent religious statues. Lucero lived and made good on his promise, which included creating Tucson’s Garden of Gethsemane, a small sculpture park on busy Congress Street near I-19.

The park’s large, white statues are crafted from concrete, sand and debris Lucero recovered from the nearby Santa Cruz River. A sculpture of Christ with his disciples at the Last Supper dominates; there are also pieces depicting Jesus on the cross, in the tomb and with the Holy Family, plus diorama-type artwork.

Over the years, Lucero’s statues have been damaged by floods and vandalism, and today show advanced signs of aging, sporting numerous cracks and some missing parts. Thankfully, the pieces are currently being repaired.

DeGrazia Complex

One of the most inspiring places in the area is the 10-acre DeGrazia complex, tucked into the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains. The late Ettore “Ted” DeGrazia (1909-1982) once lived here. An Arizona-born artist renowned for paintings and ceramic works depicting the region’s American Indian and Mexican cultures, he created numerous works of sacred art. Angels were favorite subjects.

In 1952, a few years after acquiring the property, DeGrazia built Mission in the Sun, a simple adobe chapel, to honor Father Kino, the Jesuit who founded San Xavier del Bac. It was dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico.

From the outside, the earthen-colored chapel looks quite plain. It’s got a wooden front door and a primitive cross poking out the roof. But once you step inside, be prepared to be wowed. The walls are covered in the artist’s colorful murals, beautifully set off by the never-ending Arizona sunshine, thanks to a large, rectangular opening in the ceiling. A mural of Our Lady of Guadalupe is the centerpiece, surrounded by dozens of flowers, candles and prayer requests scribbled on scraps of paper.

In 1960, DeGrazia’s painting Los Niños was chosen as a Unicef greeting card and sold millions worldwide. And so in 1965, finally an established artist, he opened Gallery in the Sun next to the chapel, in which he placed about 15,000 of his original paintings.

If you visit during Lent, look for the annual exhibition of the Way of the Cross, a series of oil paintings DeGrazia created in 1964 for the University of Arizona’s Newman Center. The paintings hung in the Newman Center chapel for a year before DeGrazia replaced them with reproductions due to insurance and environmental concerns. Interestingly, there are 15 stations, not 14. DeGrazia felt the cycle wouldn’t be complete unless a final station showed the risen Christ.

Melanie McManus writes from

Sun Prairie, Wisconsin.

Information

San Xavier del Bac Mission is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Online at sanxaviermission.org. St. Augustine Cathedral offers guided tours. Call (520) 770-1245 or visit staugustinecathedral.com on the Internet. The wheelchair-accessible Garden of Gethsemane display is open dawn to dusk. It’s on Congress Street just west of Interstate 19. The DeGrazia complex is open daily and online at degrazia.org.

Planning Your Visit

Fly into Tucson or Phoenix, two hours to the north. Since Tucson is a major resort destination, there are plenty of places to stay — and no shortage of cultural offerings to explore after you’ve hit the Catholic high points. Call the Metropolitan Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau at (800) 638-8350 or check out visittucson.org.

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