The remote, unspoiled, English isle of Lindisfarne — popularly known around Northumbria as “Holy Island” — has been closely connected with the Catholic faith since St. Aidan of Lindisfarne founded a monastery here around 635.

Aidan (feast day: Aug. 31) had been sent from Iona in Scotland at the request of King Oswald. As a result, Lindisfarne became the base for Christian evangelizing throughout the north of England. Monks from the community of Iona settled here; among them was one called Cuthbert. He later became abbot of the monastery and is now Northumberland's patron saint.

It was on Lindisfarne that Cuthbert spent his time in prayer and contemplation, having only the seals and sea birds for company. His life and miracles were recorded by another great saint, the Venerable Bede. The old monastery no longer exists, yet the spirit of these great saints lives on in this place.

St. Cuthbert died in 687. He was buried in his monastery at Lindisfarne, and his tomb immediately became celebrated for remarkable miracles. These were so numerous that he was called the “Wonder-worker of England.” After Cuthbert's death, the famous illuminated manuscript known as the Lindisfarne Gospels was written in his honor. The Gospels, which rank among Britain's greatest artistic and religious treasures, are illustrated in a beautiful — and amazingly complex — Celtic style. They are particularly unusual for their bird illustrations and their naturalistic detail, which was obviously inspired by the landscape of the island.

When the Vikings raided Lindisfarne in 875 and destroyed the monastery, St. Cuthbert's miraculously incorrupt body was removed and finally laid in a Saxon church in Durham. The magnificent Durham Cathedral was built on the site of this church. Durham Cathedral is only a couple hours’ drive from Lindisfarne; St. Cuthbert's tomb as well as St. Bede's may still be seen there.

The Lindisfarne Gospels now reside in the British Library in London, to the great annoyance of many a Northumbrian.

Ebb and Flow

One of the great attractions of Lindisfarne, for the monks back then and the visitors of today, is that it is only an island intermittently. Connected to the mainland of Northumberland by a causeway, it is cut off twice a day by the rising of the sea. Tidal times must be checked before visiting or you could end up being stranded on the island overnight. At low tide, there is a road for those who wish to drive across, and it is also possible to walk the sands following a crossing line known as the Pilgrims’ Way, which is marked with posts.

Earlier this summer my husband and I, along with our 1-year-old, visited Holy Island for the second time with a church group. As part of our return pilgrimage, we walked along the sands of the Pilgrims’ Way.

Actually, “walked along the sands” sounds romantic and civilized. What we actually did was plodge through the mud, which is really much more appropriate for a place associated with Viking raids. Children love to arrive on the island this way, dragging their feet through the muddy black clay, surrounded by beauty and silence.

As ever on this journey, I heard a babble of excited and hopeful questions about our possible fate: “Is there quicksand that could swallow us up? Could the waves rush in and drown us all?” In fact, the crossing is completely safe so long as you observe the tide times.

If you plan to walk across the causeway, the only way to do it is barefoot. Boots or shoes will only impede your progress — and there is nothing like that feeling of mud squishing through your toes to remind you that “you were made from soil, and you will become soil again” (Genesis 3:19).

Legend has it that St. Cuthbert would pray for hours at night on these shores in all seasons. Sea otters would come and sit at his feet and the ducks flocked around him. Cuthbert made rosaries from the fossil crinoids washed up on the seashore. To this day these crinoids are known as St. Cuthbert's Beads.

St. Cuthbert is recognized as one of the world's earliest wildlife conservationists and the eider duck is known locally as the Cuddy duck or Cuthbert duck in his memory. Lindisfarne is a very popular destination for bird watchers as parts of the island are protected as Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve.

St. Aidan's Ardor

Although the original monastery built by St. Aidan no longer stands, a Benedictine priory was built on Lindisfarne during the late 11th century. The ruins of this priory are still there to be explored, along with a museum.

The parish church has connections with the seventh-century monastery, as well as traces of Saxon architecture. Lindisfarne also has its own small castle, built using stones from the monastery ruins and based on the style of a Tudor fort. Situated atop a volcanic mound, Lindisfarne Castle is one of the most distinct and picturesque features of the island; it can be seen for many miles around. The castle and garden are in the care of the National Trust and open to visitors.

For an interesting diversion, or for those searching for a unique gift, St. Aidan's Winery operates in the center of the island. The showroom attracts more than 200,000 visitors a year from all over the world. Here you can sample Lindisfarne Mead, a fortified wine made on the island from fermented white grapes, honey and herbs.

The wine is delightful, but for me — and, I think, for most visitors to Lindisfarne — the main draw of this island is its combination of rare natural beauty and rich Catholic heritage. Arriving here is rather like stepping back through the centuries to a slower, quieter and more prayerful place and time.

It is a true paradox that a place so popular can remain so timeless, cut off from the modern world in both a physical and spiritual sense. Yet the tranquility mysteriously remains. This is perhaps the last and most amazing of St. Cuthbert's miracles.

As St. Aidan put it in a prayer: “Leave me alone with God as much as may be. As the tide draws the waters close in upon the shore, make me an island, set apart, alone with you, God, holy to you. Then with the turning of the tide prepare me to carry your presence to the busy world beyond, the world that rushes in on me till the waters come again and fold me back to you.”

Rachel O'Brien writes from Gateshead, England.

Planning Your Visit

Most people like to visit Holy Island during the summer months (May-September), when the weather is most hospitable. But the priory is open all year round, and some may prefer the remote beauty of Lindisfarne in winter when it is less popular with tourists. St. Aidan's Catholic Church is open every day for prayer. Mass times vary with tides, depending entirely on visiting priests. For more, visit www.lindisfarne.org.uk.

Getting There

Lindisfarne sits just off the northeast coast of England. The nearest railway station is at Berwick-upon-Tweed. A public bus service operates from the station to the Island, although the frequency varies considerably from summer to winter and according to the prevailing tide. A taxi service is also available.