Mississippi Queen

While many U.S. parishes are proud of their 75- or 100-year history — and rightfully so — Holy Family Catholic Church in Cahokia, Ill., can boast of more than three centuries of prayer and sacraments.

It's believed to be the oldest continuously operating Catholic parish in the United States.

John Reed, president of the Holy Family parish council and lifelong resident of Cahokia, was my tour guide as I ventured across the Mississippi River from St. Louis to visit this historic log church.

While older Catholic church structures still stand in Maryland and Florida, only the Cahokia parish has never ceased to function since its dedication. That took place in May of 1699.

A year earlier, three French missionaries had arrived in this part of Illinois from Quebec. They came in hopes of converting the Tamaroa Indians, a friendly local tribe. The missionaries established a good relationship with the them, and the parish began to plant its roots. Soon French settlers and voyagers began moving in, transforming this fertile ground along the banks of the Mississippi River into a modest trade center.

By 1760, the parish register had grown to 100 people. Twenty-three years later, a fire destroyed the log structure. Undaunted, the community got busy rebuilding.

The log church that stands today on the grounds of Holy Family was dedicated in September of 1799.

Built to Last

The church is built in the traditional French colonial style. Thick timbers of black walnut alternate with columns of chinking to give the exterior a vertically striped appearance. The original chinking, I learned, consisted of pig's hair, mud, soot, horsehair and whatever else the French could find in order to keep the logs together.

Inside, the church is small, intimate — and aged to perfection. Its worn, wooden pews shine in the sunlight pouring in; the wood floor creaks with each step you take.

An uncut center beam 110 feet long runs the length of the church. The sanctuary seats no more than 130 people.

The candlesticks on the altar were a gift from King Louis XIV of France. The frame windows are made of clear glass. Historic flags from Spain, France, Great Britain and the United States hang in the back of the church, representing the various governments this area has been under during its history.

By the 1800s, Holy Family had become a bustling center of activity. The parish has operated a school since the 1830s, when the Sisters of St. Joseph arrived from France.

In 1840, a side altar to was added to the church's square design. A statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary sits on that altar today.

In 1889, a new Gothic church was built next to the log church in order to accommodate the expanding parish. White clapboard was placed over the log church's interior and the church was used for picnics, meetings and plays.

The interior beauty of the church remained covered until 1949, when the clapboards were taken down and the church was restored to its original design for the parish's 250th anniversary.

In 1970, the log church was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Famous Folk

Holy Family has had its share of high-profile visitors, according to Reed, who dates his own family roots here to 1760.

Wealthy landowner Nicholas Jarrot and his wife settled in Cahokia in the early 1800s, joining the parish. Meriwether Lewis, who, along with William Clark, set up Camp Dubois (now Hartford, Ill.) just up the river, was Jarrot's frequent guest. (It was customary at that time to attend Mass with your host.)

A young Abraham Lincoln, working as a circuit-riding lawyer, was also a good friend of the Jarrots; he, too, stayed with them several times.

In 1999, the parish celebrated its tri-centennial and was almost visited by Pope John Paul II. The Pope was aware of this historic church and some speculated that he was going to visit as part of his trip to St. Louis in January of that year.

The Holy Father didn't make it here — but, when he celebrated Mass in the TWA Dome, he did use an original chalice from the missionaries who first arrived in Cahokia in 1698.

Today, a newer church stands next to the log church. Built in 1972, it serves as the current parish church. The Tridentine Mass is celebrated each Sunday morning in the log church. Other special Masses are held throughout the year.

To step through the wooden doors of the log church at Holy Family is to walk into the early roots of our Catholic faith here in the United States. Its worn walls are a reminder of the generations who have called this their spiritual home for more than three centuries.

May its second 300 years be as blessed as its first.

Eddie O'Neill writes from St. Louis.

Planning Your Visit

From Memorial Day until mid-August, the log church is open for tours daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., except on Sundays when it is open from 12 noon to 4 p.m. The rest of the year, please call the parish office at (618) 337-4548 to arrange a visit.

Getting There

Holy Family Catholic Church is about 20 miles from St. Louis Lambert International Airport. Take I-70 toward Illinois. After crossing the river, take IL-3 South for 2.3 miles. Take a left on First Street and a right on Church Street.