The first thing you notice is the silence. It is not the kind of dead quiet you find in some of the enormous, old churches of Europe — the decommissioned ones now presented to tourists as artifacts of a bygone age.

No, the silence inside Chicago's St. John Cantius Church is felt. It's a palpable presence.

Of course, Christ is really present here, body, blood, soul and divinity. But there's something else here, too. The history of the parish is alive in this silence, engaging all the senses. The smell of candles and incense is sweet; the soaring spaces and rich ornamentation, a feast for the eyes.

I believe it's always been this way in here. And yet there's no doubt that, nestled in a newly gen-trifying neighborhood on Chicago's West Side, St. John Cantius has seen its share of change. More interesting, however, than the row of new condominiums across the street or the restaurants and shops in the neighborhood has been the transformation of the parish itself.

Once slated for likely closure due to dwindling attendance, the large Renaissance-Baroque church has experienced a hearty rebound to become one of the most-respected and beautiful jewels of the Chicago Archdiocese.

The church, with its recently restored clock-tower steeple and copper-roofed belfry, was originally founded in 1892. During the next 25 years, the parish grew from 25 parishioners to more than 23,000. In addition to the beautiful edifice, they also built a parish school, a rectory and a convent for the School Sisters of Notre Dame who taught here.

The intrusion of several expressways through the once densely populated Polish neighborhood caused a steady decline in area and parish population. By 1988, the church had been reduced to only a handful of mostly elderly people assisting at Mass each Sunday.

Enter Resurrectionist Father C. Frank Phillips, the present pastor, who upon his installment promptly instituted a return to the liturgical roots of the Church. With that, the parish re-grew quickly as a large influx of new parishioners from many other neighborhoods and the suburbs began to attend regularly.

The issuance of Pope John Paul II's motu proprio apostolic letter Ecclesia Dei that same year allowed the opportunity to reintro-duce the Tridentine Mass (1962 Missal) to the parish on a weekly basis. The traditional Mass became the centerpiece of the renewal of St. John Cantius as probably the most beloved “commuter parish” in Chicago. It has also become a favorite pilgrimage destination.

Peace Pervades

The soaring façade of the church towers from the level of the street immediately makes one cognizant of the purpose of the structure. The deep carving high above the entrance proclaims Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam, declaring that this is “all for the greater glory of God.” The church cornerstone reads, “Awesome is this place: It is the House of God and the Gate of Heaven.”

Upon entering the nave, one is immediately struck by the peace that pervades the entire interior. St. John Cantius is a church of warmth and beauty, liberally decorated in wood, carvings and other items of sacred art. Christ rises in glory high above the main altar in power and majesty. Two tall angels, one on either side of the sanctuary, bear large candles as if to escort Jesus and herald his presence. The floor of the church is a mosaic depicting the symbols of the Church in many colors. Craftsman relied on intricate pieces of many types of wood to create this work of art. Amazingly, no colored stains were used in constructing the inlaid hardwood floor images.

Among the many outstanding works of art here is a striking image of Our Lady of Czestochowa, prominently raised at the front, leftside altar. At the north and south side-altars are a carved 19th-century Pieta from Bavaria and an actual scale replica of the world-renowned Wit Stwosz altarpiece from Krakow, Poland. Both were commissioned for this church.

It's never just the “same old thing” at St. John Cantius. For one thing, the illuminative effects of the resplendent stained glass from Europe change with the time of day and the seasons. For another, a variety of artworks brought in for various holy days and liturgical seasons ensure that every visit to the church is unique.

The second floor of the church houses a 250-year-old Italian presi-pio (a large, intricate Nativity) that is truly worth the climb — especially on or around the solemnity of the Epiphany (Jan. 4). Originally slated for the Vatican, it was instead donated to St. John Cantius, where it is on permanent display. The church's second-floor museum room also displays more than 1,000 authentic relics of saints.

While the art and architecture of the parish lends a hand, a visit to St. John Cantius quickly becomes a moving spiritual pilgrimage. Dedicated to a truly authentic celebration of the liturgy in all of its forms, great care is taken at St. John Cantius to adhere to all of the rubrics established by the Church. In addition to the opportunity to assist at the glorious Tridentine Mass, you also have options for the Novus Ordo Mass offered in both English and Latin each Sunday.

It is sometimes said by visitors that they have never experienced the Mass said with such care, reverence and attention to detail. In any event, a visit to the parish can never be considered complete without attending one of the Masses offered by the priests of the Society of St. John Cantius, the new religious community that supports this diocesan parish.

Before you end your visit, stop by the lower-level Café San Giovanni for some of the best chili in the area. There you can meet the wonderful, warm people of this very special parish church — a church in which God's presence is so unmistakable amid the sacred silence.

Len Pacek writes from Orland Park, Illinois.