VATICAN CITY — President Bush had no formal exchange prepared when he spoke to Pope John Paul II at the Vatican on June 4.

Instead, in unscripted words he passed on “greetings from our country, where you are respected, admired and greatly loved.”

But the Pope knew just what he was going to say. He spoke pointedly about the war in Iraq, reminding the president of the Holy See's interventions for peace before the U.S.-led invasion, and decrying recent “deplorable events.” Excerpts from both leaders’ speeches can be found on page 5.

The Pope also praised Bush for his pro-family policies, and It was noticed by many present that the Holy Father made a point of saying “God bless America” twice in his discourse — he was scripted only to say it once but is widely known to always make a point of saying it to American audiences.

He also sent his regards to former President Ronald Reagan, who died the next day, and his wife Nancy.

Tiber Motorcade. It was just after midday when a stream of vehicles and motorbikes swept up the Via della Conciliazione to the sound of whistles and clapping.

Staff, reporters, support vehicles and security made up a somewhat menacing presidential motorcade on its way to see John Paul.

“Such a military presence I've not seen before on a state visit,” one seasoned Vatican journalist revealed as he blended with a small crowd that had gathered.

A fair number had come to cheer their support for the president. Others were waiting in protest to voice their disgust.

“I'm here because I'm a Catholic,” said Father Patrick McMahon of the Carmelite Institute in Washington, D.C. “The Pope has spoken very clearly on this disastrous policy in Iraq, and Bush hasn't listened. He's created this hotbed of terrorism and violence and he's alienated the whole Islamic world.”

Such sentiments were echoed by many Italians who held two protests in Rome against Bush's decision to go to war in Iraq. But inside the walls of the apostolic palace, the mood quickly turned ceremonial, serene and gracious.

U.S. Archbishop James Harvey, head of the Papal Household, was the first Vatican official to welcome Bush.

After greeting the palace's staff, the president, dressed in a light-blue suit, was led with his wife and entourage through what seemed like endless magnificently frescoed corridors. Bush looked stern and collected but clearly tired having arrived in the Italian capital at 1 a.m.

Ready to greet him at the end of the first stage of corridors was the Vatican secretary of state, Cardinal Angelo Sodano. Though he was a vocal critic of the Iraq war, differences were put aside as he welcomed the president with smiles and guided him to the apostolic library.

On glimpsing the Pope at the far end of the room, Bush's face lit up with delight as he walked briskly to greet the Holy Father. Both shook each other's hands firmly, the president bending down to speak to the Pope before taking his seat where he looked upon John Paul with respect and even awe.

The doors were then closed, during which time the two leaders held private talks.

Fifteen minutes elapsed before Bush emerged from the library and was escorted to the Clementine Hall, the traditional place where the Holy Father gives discourses to visitors.

The Pope followed shortly after, wheeled into the hall to the sound of enthusiastic clapping from the president's delegation.

Edward Pentin writes from Rome.