St. Andrew is the patron saint of Scotland, and his X-shaped cross — white on a blue background — forms the country’s flag.

But Andrew was a fisherman in Galilee, brother to Peter. How did he come to be so venerated thousands of miles away in the northern part of Europe? And how did a town on the eastern coast of Scotland, St. Andrews, now famous for its university and golf, come to be associated with him?

The key lies in the story of St. Regulus (Rule). You will not find him listed in most dictionaries of saints, and little seems to be known of him. But it is said that he was a monk, who in the 8th or 9th century had a dream in which he was told to bring the relics of St. Andrew to this place on the coast of Fife. The local king, Angus McFergus, gave him a piece of land called the Boar’s Raik (there is still a road here called Boarhill) and the name of the whole settlement was changed to St. Andrews.

Certainly, there has been devotion to the apostle Andrew here for centuries. Throughout the Middle Ages, a succession of churches were built here, each larger and finer than the one it replaced. One of these churches, dedicated to St. Rule, had a fine tower that still stands today and is a landmark which can be seen some way out at sea.

By the time of the Reformation, St. Andrews boasted a cathedral that was the largest in Scotland. On this magnificent stretch of coastline, where rocks and cliffs alternate with beautiful beaches and natural harbors, the cathedral soared to the sky, giving glory to God — and evidence of a strong and vibrant faith which had nurtured the culture of a nation.

But the religious strife of the 16th century was to change everything. Nowhere was the strife more tragic than here. People were burned at the stake, and a bishop was hanged from the tower of the cathedral. Fear and loathing were born in people’s hearts, lasting for generations.

In the factional fighting, the cathedral was destroyed. It stands as a stark ruin today. St. Rule’s Tower was also left standing — alone, with no church around it —bleakly against the skyline. The town lost its significance and its prosperity.

The university, established in 1410, also went through hard times, functioning in dilapidated buildings. In fact, the whole town seemed to have no future. The sea was encroaching on the ruins of its old churches, and one visitor — Daniel Defoe, author of Robinson Crusoe — wrote that the town might one day be abandoned completely.

Current Challenges

But there was a revival, and by the early 19th century, attention was being paid to the university, which went on to thrive. By the end of Queen Victoria’s reign, it boasted several new buildings, and by the middle of the 20th century, it was recognized as one of the foremost universities of Britain. The popularity of golf (every Scot is proud of the fact that the game was invented in his country) also brought prosperity; the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, one of the most famous in the world, was established on the outskirts of the town.

Today, St. Andrews is also a popular holiday destination for young families: the beach, the pleasant, friendly small town with its tea shops and cafes, as well as the stark ruins that form a dramatic backdrop to the scene all attract visitors.

But it is a place to ponder. Here you can trace the story of Scotland’s troubled religious history, learn the story of St. Rule, and recognize that a living faith did finally emerge from the ruins. There is a Catholic church, St. James, in the town. Opposite it, there is the Catholic chaplaincy for the university, in a house named “Canmore,” after the great Scottish King Malcolm Canmore, who was the husband of St. Margaret. Here, Catholic students meet for prayer, meetings, conferences and lively social events (the writer of this article has been a guest speaker there several times and can testify to this).

Today, much of the religious tension that hallmarked Scotland in the years following the Reformation has gone. Catholics are free to practice their faith. But there are new problems. The government imposes anti-family policies, funded out of taxes: schemes of sex education that emphasize contraception and “gay rights” and health services that promote abortion. In schools and in the mass media, the message is one of secularism. There is an urgent need to evangelize.

Anyone who visits the beautiful but tragic ruins of St. Andrews will find plenty of things to take to God in prayer.

Joanna Bogle is

based in London.

For more information: Archdiocese-Edinburgh.com/parishes_stjames_standrews.htm

Planning Your Visit:

Mass at St. James Church in St. Andrews is offered at 5 p.m. on Saturday and 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. on Sunday. Confessions are heard after the Saturday 9:30 a.m. Mass and on Saturday afternoon from 6 to 6:30 p.m. The parish can be reached at 01334-472856.

Getting There: By train: It’s about an hour’s ride from Edinburgh to Leuchars Station; from there, take a taxi to town. Edinburgh has a major international airport.

By car: Take the A90 from Edinburgh across the Forth Road bridge to the M90 via Dunfermline, then the A91.